Dyeing & Weaving

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Weave (p. 90 )

. Produced in Hamamatsu City, Shizuoka Prefecture.

2. Characteristics: Wool like silk fabric woven with dupion silk threads(taken from double cocoons) and pongee threads. 2 kinds of weaves: plain and twill; designs are large stripes and cross stripes. Thick hand woven "Tsumugi."

3. Uses: The plain weave is for clothes and the twill for "Haori", coats and sashes. The wide twill cloths are for Western clothes, table cloths and neckties.

4. History: The textile industry in Hamamatsu, which used to produce cotton fabrics called "Enshu Momen(cotton)," declined in the economic recession in the end of the Taisho Period. Zazanza Ori was developed in the 1930ユs ,when Minoru Hiramatsu, weaver of traditional cotton fabrics in Hamamatsu, created this fabric by weaving manually with knotted dupion silk threads and pongee threads. "Zazanza" is an onomatopoeia of wind, soughing through pine trees, taken from a phrase in a "Kyogen" piece, "Chatsubo"(tea canister). "Kyogen" is a comic interlude performance in a "Noh" program. The phrase which is "the sound of pines on beach Hamamatsu is ヤzazanzaユ." This is why Zazanza Ori is loved by those who are interested in tea ceremony.