Dyeing & Weaving

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Weave Dye (p. 87 )

1. Produced in Ariake-Hotakamachi Minamiazumigun, Nagano Prefecture.

2. Characteristics: "Tensanm" also called "Yama Mayu"(mountain or wild cocoon) is a cocoon of a Japanese oakworm moth(Antheraea yamamai). In this Tsumugi, silk is used as warp and as weft, the combined threads hand spun from both wild and domestic cocoons. Its luster is of elegant light green. It is light, strong and warm. It rustles when touched with each other.

3. Uses: Clothing.

4. History: The growing of wild cocoon started in the oak woods in Ariake during 1780ユs. It was marketed during 1820ユs, and 50% of all farmers in Ariake raised cocoons in the early and middle of the Meiji Period(1868-1912) producing 8 million cocoons a year. In the late Meiji Era, however, noxious insects and ashes erupted from volcano resulted in the decline of production. The moth itself is not resistant to diseases and the oak woods became smaller. However, a small amount of the wild cocoon is produced today, but there is no pongee of 100% wild cocoon. The combination rate is 10 domestic to 1 wild cocoon. The Tsumugi of 100% wild cocoon would be enormously expensive. "Kodai Ashiginu," coarse silk fabrics of ancient times(in and before the 10th century) is regarded as a fabric from the wild cocoons.