Dyeing & Weaving

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Weave (p. 90 )

1. Produced in Kakegawa City, Shizuoka Prefecture.

2. Characteristics: Fabric woven with fibers taken from the vine of "Kuzu"(arrow root, Pueraria thungeriana lobata), also called "Kappu." An oldest type of fabric.

3. Uses: Once used for "Hakama,"(skirt,) "Kamishimo"(formal dress,) and mosquito net. Today it is used for raingear, sliding doors and wall cloths.

4. History: The cloth was used for "Nubakama," loose trousers worn when "Kemari"(kind of football played by court nobilities) is played. In the Kamakura to EdoPeriods(1185-1868) it was called "Kakko" and used for summer "Hakama." Cloths are plain, striped, and dyed in indigo and light brown.

Dyeing Method

1. "Kuzu" vine is reaped in May.

2. Fibers are taken from the vine and boiled in lime and then bleached in water.

3. Cotton, hemp or silk threads are used as warp and the fabric is woven on a "Takahata"(raised loom.)