CHUGOKU District
Tottori Pref. (Tottori), Okayama Pref. (Okayama), Hiroshima Pref. (Hiroshima),
Shimane Pref. (Matue), Yamaguchi Pref. (Yamaguchi)
*Weave*
(p.113)
1. Produced in Kurayoshi City, Tottori Prefecture.
2. Characteristics: Cotton fabric, in which thick indigo dyed threads are used for both
warp and weft. Designs are mostly traditional patterns. The fabric is thick and this is
one of the 3 "E(figure) Kasuri"(Yumigahama, Kurayoshi and Hirose) in Sanin
District.
3. Uses: Clothing, bedding, cushions.
4. History: The newest among the 3 types of Kasuri of Sanin(Tottori, Shimane and northern
Yamaguchi Prefectures). The Kurayoshi Kasuri was first woven under the influence of
"Kurume Kasuri" and "Yumigahama Gasuri" and widely traded throughout
Japan in the early Meiji Period.
The designs at first were woven only with the weft. Since the middle of Meiji Period
complicated designs were woven in "double ikat"(dyed threads are used both for
warp and weft).
FarmersÕ side jobs at first, it was mechanized and produced in large amounts in the end
of the Meiji to the Taisho Periods. After the Taisho, production declined. There are
signs, however, that the Kurayoshi Gasuri will be revived today.
*Weave*
(p.113)
1. Produced in Yonago City, Sakaiminato City, Yodoecho, Saihakugun, Tottori
Prefecture.
2.Characteristics: Threads are taken manually from cotton wool. Threads for weft are
marked with Chinese ink with a special thread as a measure. Threads for weft is dyed in
indigo after they are tied tightly with hemp rind. Patterns and designs are woven only
with the weft.
Figures close to daily life are woven including birds, flowers, fans and names. It is
called "E Gasuri," figure kasuri, and also called "Hama Gasuri."
3. Uses: Clothing, sashes, bedding, cushions, "Noren,"(shop curtains), wall
hangings, table centers.
4. History: As the soil had not been good for crops, efforts were made to cultivate
cotton, producing quality cotton, called "Hakushu"(Tottori Prefecture) cotton,
which was marketed in Osaka in the Meiwa and Anei Eras(1764-81).
"kasuri" was first woven in the Bunka Era(1804-1818) when the "Kasuri"
technique was transmitted from Iyo(Ehime prefecture). The production continued to the
Taisho Period, but the traditional Kasuri(handspun) has not been woven as it needs
manpower. Instead, only Yumigahama Kasuri, which is chemically dyed, Machine spun and
woven, is produced to the amount of some 10,000 "tan"(amount of cloth enough for
an adult) every year today.
*Weave*
(p.114)
1. Produced in Hirosemachi Nogigun, Yasugi City, Shimane Prefecture.
2. Characteristics: Hand woven cotton fabric with "Kasuri" designs which look
more like folk craft. One of the Three Figure Kasuri in the Sanin District. Designs are
delicately woven. It was once praised as good for its large designs in comparison to the
middle sized designs in "Bingo(Hiroshima Prefecture) Gasuri" and small designs
in "Kurume Gasuri." Most of the designs are "Sho-Chiku-Bai"(Pine,
Bamboo, Plum) and "Tsuru-Kame"(Crane,Turtle), both of which are regarded as
being auspicious in Japan. The futon mat in which "Hirose Gasuri" is used was a
bridal mat as well as a death mat. It was a custom for the bride to take a futon mat made
with Hirose Gasuri to her bridegroom as one of the bridal items.
After it was used on the wedding night the mat was carefully kept and was used again as a
death bed for the same woman.
A special technique called "Makase" is used in this Kasuri weaving. The part to
be left undyed is not marked with Chinese ink(as is usual in most Kasuri weaving) but it
is copied onto the pattern paper.
3. Uses: Clothing, bedding, cushions
4. History: Hirose Gasuri was originated in Hirose where a doctorÕs wife started weaving
it after she studied the technique of dyeing and weaving "Yumigahama Gasuri" in
Yonago in the Bunsei Era(1818-30). After that, the production flourished as the feudal
government protected it. In and after the Koka Era(1844-48), an official designer of the
government created a large design, which became widely known as characteristic of Hirose
Gasuri. Its production equaled that of "Kurume Gasuri" in the Meiji Period. In
the Meiji Era starting in 1897, some changes in the loom(from low to raised looms) and the
threads(from hand to machine spun) were made for mass production. However, a big fire in
1915 and the WWII damaged its production. It is being revived today by a man named Amano,
who is good in the technique of Kasuri weaving.
*Weave*
(p.116)
1. Produced in Hirose City, Shimane Prefecture.
2. Characteristics: A regenerated fabric, in which hemp or cotton threads are used as warp
and used silk or cotton cloths are used as weft. The combination of used cloths creates
varieties in stripes. Thick, strong, and therefore, good for keeping warm.
3. Uses: Working clothes, farming clothes, sashes, table cloths, small articles.
4. History: In such areas as Northern Tohoku, Sado Island or Sanin District, where cotton
does not grow well, and therefore, was valuable, this type of regenerated fabric was
produced and used for cloths for private uses.
*Dye*
(p.116)
1. Produced in Izumo City, Shimane Prefecture.
2. Characteristics: A traditional "Furoshiki"(square wrapping cloth) used as one
of the items for the bride to take with her to her groom. It was dyed in indigo with a
cylinder("Tsutsugaki"). In the center of the fulled cotton cloth is dyed the
brideÕs family crest and at the 2 or 4 corners are dyed such felicitous designs as
"Sho-Chiku-Bai"(Pine, Bamboo, Plum), "Tsuru-Kame"(Crane, Turtle), or
"Takara Zukushi"(collection of figures symbolical of health and wealth). There
is also a set of 3 different sizes of the Furoshiki. The dyer who dyes the wrapping cloth
was called "Omote(front) Konya" and those who dyed the threads "Ito(thread)
Konya."
3. Uses: Wedding purposes
4. History: It is surmised that cotton growing flourished in the late Edo Period. Although
the quality of indigo produced in this area was not as good as those in Awa(Tokushima
Prefecture), indigo dyeing was important for farmers in mountain villages as the indigo
strengthened the cloth and were insect repellent.
The indigo dyed cloths were important for the people in Izumo because it was widely used
as one of the bridal items, and as bath cloths for babies, as a strap with which to carry
baby on the back, and for banners for hoisting on BoyÕs Day Festivals. Such customs have
ceased, and now only 2 dyers left.
Dyeing Method
Indigo and other plants are used as dyes. The cloths are usually dyed all over in
indigo. When multi-colored, designs are dyed separately with pigments. Designs are decided
by the person who orders.
*Weave*
(p.117)
1 Produced in Tsuyama City, Okayama Prefecture.
2. Characteristics: Thick cotton fabric with Kasuri designs, dyed in indigo. Designs are
usually of the hand drum and the folding fan.
3 Uses: clothing
4. History: Before the Meiji Era, fabrics were only for private use. In the middle Meiji
Era, production of Kasuri started on the basis of the technique of "Kurayoshi
Gasuri" but it declined in the Showa Era.
In 1952, Hiroshi Sugihara, a local weaver, revived the technique of weaving for private
use. It was named "Sakushu (Okayama Prefecture) Kasuri" when it was first
marketed.
*Weave*
(p.118)
1. Produced in Shinichimachi Ashinagun, Fuchu City, Fukuyama City, Hiroshima
Prefecture.
2. Characteristics: Cotton fabric with the designs of parallel cross or figure designs.
3. Uses: Clothing, cushion cloths.
4. History: The area was most famous for quality cotton fabrics it produced as a result of
its cotton plantations since very old days. In the Edo Period, "Shiro (white)
Momen.," "Asagi(light blue) Momen" and "Shima (stripe) momen"
were woven. "Shima Momen," above all, was protected by the feudal government and
was widely known as "Kanbe Jima (stripe)" or "Fukuyama Shima."
In 1853 Kyusaburo Tomita wove "Kasuri" with a cross striped pattern with threads
which are tie-dyed by hand with bamboo rinds. It was also called "Aruji Kasuri"
or "Tanizashi Kasuri," which was the origin of what is today called "Bingo
Gasuri." Since around 1861(the first year of Bunkyu) the Kasuri was woven with
imported yarn and shipped to Osaka with the name of "Bunkyu Kasuri."
It was called "Bingo Gasuri" in the early Meiji Period when its market expanded
and the production process was mechanized. With the technical introduction from Kurume,
the production of "E(figure) Kasuri" started. It enjoyed its height throughout
Japan around 1960, however, declined after that due to decreasing demand.
*Weave*
(p.119)
1. Produced in Takamatsu City, Kagawa Prefecture.
2. Characteristics: Unique cotton fabric with an uneven surface, air permeable and
moisture absorbent, giving a dry touch.
3. Uses: Clothing, hand towels, "Noren"(shop curtain), wrapping cloths, sheets,
etc.
4. History: "Hota Ori" was invented in 1692 by Tsunekichi Kitagawa, retained
weaver of the Takamatsu feudal government. By order of the feudal lord to produce better
fabrics than those in other feudal government, he invented silk fabrics which looked a
little like crepe fabrics with its raised weft. After that,"Hota Ori" became one
of the items used for donating to the Shogunate and the production was made a mystery to
be handed down to and monopolized by his descendents.
After the Meiji Restoration (1868), Yujiro Kitagawa, one of TsunekichiÕs descendants,
made the technique accessible to the public and replaced the silk with cotton.
The production was prohibited by the Goods Control Ordinance during WWII, and was revived
around 1951 but today, only 2 factories are producing this traditional fabric.
*Dye*
(p.119)
1. Produced in Takamatsu City, Kagawa Prefecture and Choshi City, Chiba Prefecture.
2. Characteristics: Refer to "Tsutsugaki Zome" in the Kanto District. ( p.33 )
3. Uses: Refer to above section also.
4. History: Refer to above section also.
*Weave*
(p.120)
1. Produced in Takamatsu City, Tokushima Prefecture.
2. Characteristics: Cotton crepe, pre-dyed and crimpy. Crimps are created with the tension
between the warp and weft. The indigo looks fresh and the touch is soft. It is
inexpensive.
3. Uses: Clothes for summer, western clothes, small articles.
4. History: This cotton fabric was a result of improvement made on the traditional
"Tatae Jima(stripe)" which had been woven in this area since the middle of the
Edo Period. The Tatae Jima was woven in every home for their summer clothes.
The story goes that a woman happened to find a Tatae Jima cloth which changed into a crimp
like crepe when it was drenched by rain on a summer day. Following that incident, she
produced a new fabric which was given the name "Awa Shijira (crimp)" in 1969.
The threads are dyed in indigo then hand woven. The market for that fabric grew and its
expansion was enjoyed with a great amount of production, once as much as 2 million
"tan" a year. However, the production ceased in 1937 as it was affected by the
production of other fabrics which advanced into the market and also by the outbreak of war
that year.
Although the production was revived in 1951, it decreased after 1973 due to little demand
for traditional Kimono cloths. To the present day, the Awa Shijira is designated as an
Important Intangible Cultural Property of Tokushima Prefecture as an indigo dyed folk
craft fabric. The woman, Hana Kaifu, who invented the Awa Shijira, was conferred a Medal
for Distinguished Invention by the Ministry of Agriculture and Commerce in 1883.
*Weave*
(p.121)
1. Produced in Matsuyama City, Ehime Prefecture.
2. Characteristics: Cotton "Kasuri" fabric, plain woven with pre-dyed threads in
indigo. one of the three cotton Kasuris (Kurume, Bingo and Iyo), more popular than Kurume
Gasuri.
3. Uses: Clothes, beddings, "Noren" (shop curtains), pouches, table cloths,
aprons,etc.
4. History: It was created by a woman, Kana Kagiya. It was then called "Imazu
Gasuri" in the Kyowa Era (1801-04). Popularized by the name "Iyo Gsuri" in
the 10Õs to the 30Õs of the Meiji Era (1877-1907), half of the total production of
Kasuri in Japan in the Taisho Period (1912-26) was Iyo Gasuri. In 1933, plans to increase
production by the introduction of weaving machines was unfavorably affected by the control
ordinance of cotton during WWII and a total stoppage by an American air raid in 1945.
When revived in 1949, Iyo Gasuri gained popularity because of its low prices but
production declined drastically in the thirties of Showa(1955-64).
*Weave*
(p.122)
1. Produced in Kagamicho Kamigun, Kochi Prefecture.
2. Characteristics: Soft cotton fabric with stripes, once called "Akaoka Jima"
or "Kishimoto Jima." "Tosa Men Tsumugi" was named after WWII.
3. Uses: Everyday and working clothes, bedding, small articles.
4. History: "Akaoka Jima(stripes)" and "Kishimoto Jima" were woven
since the Bunka Era(1804-18) when cotton plantations were promoted and encouraged by the
feudal government of Tosa. Much of this cloth were woven for everyday and farming use
through the Meiji and Taisho Periods. Today, it is not woven as a useful cloth but only as
a folk craft item.
Last modified:10-December-1997
