HOKURIKU District
NIIgata Pref. (Niigata), Toyama Pref. (Toyama), Ishikawa Pref. (Kanazawa), Hukui Pref.
(Hukui)
*Weave*
( p.51 )
1. Produced in Saberi Murakami City, Niigata Prefecture.
2. Characteristics: Silk fabrics looking fresh and neat, used mainly for male
"Hakama"(skirt). There are 3 types of fabrics: plain fabric, twilled fabric and
gauze. Designs are mostly light brown or grey stripes on dark blue background.
3. Uses: Male "Hakama," wallets, mufflers, etc.
4. History: Woven since Bunka Era (1804-1818) it is also called " Murakami
Hira," 2 kinds of threads are used, totally processed and partially processed silk
thereads.
*Weave*
( p.51 )
1. Produced in Sanbokucho Iwafunegun, Niigata Prefecture.
2. Characteristics: Fabrics woven with bark fiber of "Shinanoki " (Tilia
japonica.) They are older than those of cotton and hemp. No dyes are used and the color is
natural and yellowish brown. Although tough and stiff, the fabric is strong, light and
dry.
3. Uses: Working clothes, undergarments, mosquito nets and rope.
4. History: The history of this fabric is old and said to have been woven in many parts of
Japan since a thousand years ago. Since the development of modern weaving techniques in
the Meiji Restoration (1868) there are now, only a few mountain villages where this fabric
is woven manually.
*Weave*
( p.52 )
1. Produced in Gosen City, Niigata Prefecture.
2. Characteristics:Silk fabric dyed with plant dye, gentle and lustrous. Colors are black,
light brown and grey.
Uses: "Hakama".
4. History: The origin was the Hakama fabric called "Kuzu"(Pueraria lobata
fabric) woven about 250 years ago. "Gosen Hira" is said to be woven in Tenmei
Era (1781-1789 ) after an improvement was made on the "Kuzu fabric" and
"Sendai Hira". The improved technique was also applied to other fabrics,
resulting in the production of such fabrics as" Ryumon " and "Nanako"
in the Tenpo Era (1830-1844 ) and "Ro" " Yatsuhashi" and
"Habutae" in the Meiji Era ( 1868-1912). Only one factory produces traditional
"Gosen Hira"today.
*Weave*
( p.52 )
1. Produced in Kamo City, Niigata Prefecture.
2. Characteristics: Strong cotton fabric with naive quality. vertical stripes are for
kimono and cross and horizontal stripes are for bedding.
3. Uses: Working clothes, bedding, gloves and folk art items.
4.History: Oriiginated in Edo period (1600-1868 ) and flourished in late Taisho period
(1912-1926 ) . After cotten yarn was imported in 1889, striped cotten fabrics were woven
with the warp of cotten yarn and the weft of domestic cotten threads. The fabric was later
called @" Kamo Shima" ( stripe ). Today, main products are of synthetic fibers
and silk and "Kamo Shima " is rarely produced.
*Weave*
( p. 53 )
1. Produced in Ojiya City,Niigata prefecture.
2. Characteristics: Cotten fabric with naive quality which keeps its characteristics even
after many washings. Cotton yarn is mainly used with a few hand spun cotton threads.
3. Uses: Working clothes, everyday clothes and bedding.
4. History: Cotton plantations have existed since old days in Katagai Machi, Ojiya City.
Cotton threads are spun manually with a tool called Bun bun for weaving dark blue cotton
cloths. Plain cotton cloths are also woven for dyeing with indigo.
*Weave*
( p. 53 )
1. produced in Ojiya City, NIigata Prefecture.
2. Chracteristics: Hemp fabrics designated as " Important Intagible Cultural Property
" also called " Echigo Chijimi ". Hand spun " Choma" (ramie,
Bochmeria nipononivea ) are used as threads and they are woven in a traditional technique.
When splashed patterns are woven, threads are manually dyed and woven into cloths. They
are scrubbed in the water and trampled by feet so that " Shibo" (crimp ) are
created. Then they are bleached on the snow. Only " Choma" produced in Fukushima
Prefecture is used.
3. Uses: Summer kimono cloth, summer cushion cloth, bedding.
4. History: The hemp fabric has a long history as it had already been woven in the Jomon
Period (ca. 10,000 BC-ca. 300 BC). In Echigo (Niigata) a historical document records that
hemp cloths woven in Echigo were donated to the Imperial Court in the years 749-757. In
the Kamakura and Muromachi Period (1333-1568) when cotton was not popular yet, common
people used to wear clothes of hemp fabrics. The need for hemp fabrics decreased in the
Edo Period when cotton became popular. However, Echigo flourished as the producer of
" Echigo Jofu" high quality hemp fabrics due to its favorable climate for
growing hemp. "Ojiya Chijimi" (crepe,) originated around 1670 when Masatoshi
Hori moved from Akashi ( Hyogo Prefecture) to Ojiya and applied the technique of Akashi
Chijimi to Echigo Jofu and produced hemp crepe. " Ojiya Chijimi " was improved,
then became popular not only among the feudal lords but also among the common people in
Edo , Kyoto and Osaka. In 1785, production of Echigo Jofu and Ojiya Chijimi reached its
height. Since then, however, production decreased due to changes in living modes. Both of
them are designated as "Intangible Cultural Property".
In Jofu, both warf and weft are of the same threads but in Chijimi, tightly twisted
threads are used as weft. Akashi Chijimi are silk fabrics invented in Akashi and used for
high quality summer cloths. The technique reached Niigata Prefecture via Nishijin ( Kyoto
).
*Weave*
( p. 55 )
1. Produced in Ojiya City, Niigata Prefecture.
2. Characteristics: One of highest quality "Tsumugi" (pongee) silk fabrics
developed with the technique of Ojiya Chijimi. Light, comfortable, and free from wrinkles.
Most of them are woven with raw threads as warp and Tsumugi Ito"(silk threads
spun from waste cocoon) as weft. However, a few are woven with hand spun threads and
dupion silk threads both as warp and as weft.
3. Uses: Garment.
4. History: " Tsumugi"was first woven by farmers as a side job in this district
where "Echigo Jofu" and "Ojiya Chijimi" were woven from old days.
After World War II, improvement was made on "Tsumugi" with the help of the
traditional technique of "Ojiya Chijimi" and the modern "Ojiya
Tsumugi" was born.
*Weave*
( p. 55 )
1. Produced in Muikamachi,Shiozawamachi Uonumagun, Niigata Prefecture.
2. Characteristics: High quality silk Kasuri fabrics with the design of delicate
"Juji Gasuri"(crossed splash patterns). Small crimps of crepe are soft and
comfortable to skin.
3. Uses: Clothing.
4. History: Shiozawa, as well as Ojiya, was well known for its hemp fabrics. When the need
for hemp fabrics decreased in the Taisho Period improvement was made on the silk fabrics
through the application of the technique of "Echigo Chijimi" by the introduction
of "Yuki Tsumugi" and " Nishijin Ori" and the switch of looms from
"Jikata"(low loom) to "Takahata"(raised loom). Thus,"Shiozawa
Omeshi" was born in the middle of Taisho Period and the name was changed to "Hon
Shiozawa".
Threads were tie dyed first and then dyed with a patterned wood. Weaving is all manual
even today. All clothes were for male before WWII and colors were indigo, light brown,
black, erach light and deep, and white. Today, more are for the female and red and similar
colors are used.
*Dye*
( p. 56 )
1.Produced in Mitsuke City, Niigata Prefecture.
2. Characteristics: "Some Gasuri" dyed "Kasuri"( ikat) so delicately
dyed as hard to discriminate from "Ori Gasuri" woven Kasuri. "Shiro
Gasuri" ( Kasuri designs on white ground), is mainly produced.
3. Uses: Summer clothes.
4. History: Ushimatsu Yajima in Mitsuke City invented the Mangan (manganese ) Kasuri by
applying manganese compound as dyes in the 1915. The technique was introduced to other
districts and applied to silk fabrics also in the late Taisho to early Showa Eras. Due to
reduced needs for summer clothes, however, only one factory is producing this fabric
today.
Dyeing Method
The fabrics are woven with hemp or cotton threads which are dyed with manganese. They
are printed with stencil patterns using aniline chlorite sizing. After drying , the
patterns fabrics are dippped in a sodium sulfite liquid and only the patterns remain while
all other parts become faded and " Kasuri" like.
*Weave*
( p. 57 )
1. Produced in Fukumitsumachi Nishitonamigun, Toyama Prefecture.
2. Characteristics: Hemp fabrics manually woven in low or raised loom with threads hand
spun from "Karamushi"(ramie Bochmeria Nivea.)
3.Uses:Robes for Buddhist monks, cloths for tea ceremonies, screen, mosquito nets, hem
cloths for Tatami mats.
4. History: It is said that hemp cloths were first woven in this district in 794.
Encouraged by the local feudal government of Kaga ( Isikawa ) various kinds of hemp
fabrics including cloth crepe and patterned cloth, were produced in the 1573-1615 . The
production decreased drastically after the 1965-75.
*Weave*
( p. 57 )
1. Produced in Kanishimachi Kashimagun, Hakui City, Ishikawa Prefecture.
2. Characteristics:Fabrics hand woven with thin hemp threads, giving fresh touch. 4 types
of printing are used for producing splash patterns: those with combs, round stencils,
patterned wood and paper stencils. The word "Jofu" generally means high quality
hemp fabrics.
3. Uses: High class fabrics for summer clothes.
4. History: It is said that this type of hemp fabrics have 2,000 year history and used to
be donated to the Imperial Court. Hemp and " Kuwa "(mulberry tree, Morus) were
planted since old days and hemp fabrics were delivered to the government as tax in the
late Heian Period (794-1185). The traditional hemp fabrics became popular after 1814 when
Yaemon Kawai invited weavers from Omi (Shiga Prefecture) to teach higher tecniques to
local weavers. After that, good quality crepe was produced and marketed through the
traders in Omi. The fabric then was called " Noto Chijimi" or "Tokumaru
chijimi," The demand for the fabric strated decreasing from 1955. There are
"Hira (plain)Jofu" and "Chijimi Jofu" and various kinds of "
Kasuri" fabrics ( splash patterns )being produced. The technique in Kasuri weaving
and the color of the fabrics differ according to whether it will be used by a male or a
female.
*Dye*
( p. 58 )
1. Produced in Komatsu City, Ishikawa Prefecture.
2. Characteristics: Soft and lustrous silk fabrics mostly used as plain fabrics for
dyeing. This is a variation of "Shusu Ori"(satin weave) and varieties of designs
are made with different types of combination of threads.
3. Uses: Clothing,"Haori"coats, sashes.
4. History: The district was famous for silk fabrics since days of old. A document says
that "Kaga Ginu"(Kaga silk) was donated to the Imperial Court in the era of
Emperor Shomu (724-749). They were also donated to the Shogun in the Muromachi Period . In
the Edo Period, silk fabrics were produced in quantity under the protection of the feudal
lord, Toshitsune Maeda, who instituted an office to inspect and develop the quality of the
products. In the Meiji Period (1868-1912) , western weaving machines were imported and
prompted production of various kinds of patterned fabrics. Rinzu ( figured satin)
was first woven here in the Taisho Period (1912-26) and, since then, occupied considerable
share of Rinzu production in Japan.
*Weave*
( p. 59 )
1. Produced in Shiraminemura Ishikawagun, Ishikawa Prefecture.
2. Characteristics: Silk fabrics: white pongee and striped pongee, handwoven with home
spun threads. Because it is so tough, it can pull out a nail when hooked, the fabric is
also called "Kugi Nuki Tsumugi"(nail pulling pongee).
3. Uses: Clothing, coats, sashes, neckties, pouches, etc.
4. History: This district started producing silk from olden days because of flourishing
sericulture and hand spinning techniques. It is said that the origin of the fabric was in
the years after the "Heiji Revolt "(civil war) in 1159. First woven as side jobs
for farmers, it was marketable as "Ushikubi Tsumugi" and "Hakusan
Tsumugi" in the Genroku Era (1688-1704). It was industrialized in the late Meiji
Period and flourished in the late Taisho Peiod. Since the Showa Period, however,
production died out and only 2 factories are producing it today.
*Dye*
( p. 60 )
1. Produced in Kanazawa City, Ishikawa Prefecture.
2. Characteristics: A method of dyeing designs with the sizing method traditionally
carried on in Kanazawa area (Kaga) mostly hand painted. Many colors are used with the
basic 5 colors: indigo, crimson, ocher, purple and black. The color gradation in a design
is usually made from the inner side of the line toward the center, in contrast to the
"Kyoto Yuzen". The designs are picturesque in general as seen in
"Mushikui"(vermiculation) which depicts worm eaten leaves. The designs in "
Kaga Yuzen" are the ones made like the designs of those in Kyoto Yuzen. No embroidery
or metal foils are used.
3. History: Since days of old, there has been a technique of dyeing plain hemp fabrics
with the astringent juice of plum " Ume". The technique was applied to silk
fabrics at the encouragement of the feudal government in the Kanbun Era (1611-1673) ,
giving birth to a method of dyeing designs called "Kaga Zome"."Itchin
Nori" was then used as a resistant: it was kneaded flour boiled with sugar, slaked
lime and glue plant juice. The glue was put on the designs with the tips of chopsticks or
toothpicks. The craftsmen managed skillfully to apply the liquid glue, which hung like
thread, on the designs. The glue was removed after all the parts were dyed. Later,
cylinders were used for putting on the glue and the designs were hand painted. These
designs were called "Iroe "(color picture.) This technique was applied to family
crests and called "Iroe Mon"(color picture crest.)
Yuzensai Miyazaki, a painter from Kyoto who moved to Kanazawa in 1718, applying the "
Yuzen "designs to the traditional dyeing in Kanazawa. The name of "Kaga Yuzen
" appeared in the years after the Meiji Period.
Dyeing Method
Steps for dyeing is the same as those of " Kyo Yuzen."
1. Temporary tailoring of the kimono with plain white fabrics
2. Drawing the sketch of the designs
3. Putting the resistant glue where it is needed
4. Giving colors to the designs
5. Vaporizing the cloth to fix the colors
6. Putting the resistant glue where it is needed
7. Dyeing all background
8. Vaporizing the cloth to fix the colors
9. Washing cloth in water
10. Finishing after drying
"Hanayome Noren" is said to be the origin of " Kaga Yuzen" a sheet of
cloth on which felicitous designs such as "Shochikubai"(pine leaves, bamboo and
plum flowers) or "Tsurukame"(crane and tortoise) are hand dyed and used as one
of the bridal items.
*Dye*
( p. 61 j
1. Produced in Takefu City, Fukui Prefecture.
2. Characteristics: The fabrics are dyed in such way as copying the amorphous designs
formed by Chinese ink floating on water surface, loved as elegant taste for designs, which
cannot be reproduced. The technique Suminagashi" or marbling is also used for
paper dyeing in which " Torinoko Gami", the best quality hand made paper
produced in this district, are used. The marbling is applied to such silk fabrics as
"Hitokoshi crepe,"Shiose"and" Habutae". The Suminagashi designs
are a combination of 4 kinds of ink flow: natural, horizontal, vertical and whirlpool.
3. Uses: Clothing, lining cloths, neckties. The Suminagashi papers are used for wall paper
and mounting paper.
4. History: Chinese ink was imported by Doncho, a Korean monk in 610 and brush pens were
imported in the reign of Empress Suiko (592-628.) The Suminagashi was a playful recreation
among court nobilities. "Suminagashi" in this district began in 1151 when a man
named Jizaemon of Nara Prefecture received an oracle on a secret technique on how to
produce high quality handmade paper marbled with crimson, indigo and black. He travelled
all through this country looking for ideal water, best and appropriate for the production.
He found the best water in Takeo and settled there. Since then, the technique has been
transmitted to his decendents as a secret art. The present artisan is the 55th decendent.
"Suminagashi" was originally a method of dyeing handmade paper and feudal lords
protected it until the Meiji Restoration (1868) when its application on fabrics began.
Dyeing Method
Chinese ink produced in Nara Prefecture, indigo and " Benibana ( safflower,
Carthamus tinctorius) produced in Mogami (Yamagata Prefecture ) are used as dyes. The
liquid dye is dropped onto the water from the tip of a brush pen to form ripples which are
copied to papers or cloths. 3 different brush pens are used at1 time when 3 colors are
copied.
Last modified:10-December-1997
